New Kid on the Block - Mary Katrantzou
Chances are you are not yet familiar with this Greek-born fashion designer,
but you will be.
Background:
Born in Athens, and now working in London, Katranzou (cat-tran-zoo) began her studies at the Rhode Island School of Design before transferring to Central Saint Martins where she received a BA in textile design and then continued there to complete her postgraduate work and receive a distinction in MA Fashion. Having worked previously for Sophia Kokosalaki, a well-known Greek fashion designer also based in London, Katranzou is on her way to making a name for herself in the ever-changing world of fashion and conceptual design.
The Look:
Her design signature is a hyperrealist aesthetic; using bold graphics and strong color. She incorporate industrial jewelry to push it to the next level of highly stylized drama.
The Collections:
Now let me take you back...
Fall/Winter 2008
The launch of her label began with her AW 2008 collection, This freshman effort featured trompe l'oeil prints of oversized bold jewelry and as well as actual replicas of the jewelry pieces. This collection won approval from the major fashion press and secured the “New Generation” sponsorship at London Fashion Week. She’s even created a new fabric, a bonded jersey that’s soft yet strong enough to take digital prints.
This collection is all about a single shift shape, leaving this fashionistador wanting more.
"New Generation” at London Fashion Week
Spring/Summer 2009
This collection did not disappoint. Here we continue the trompe l’oeil prints and bold graphic designs, with the addition of sheer strips and textured inserts. The industrial quality to the jewelry in this collection is genius and modern. Their is newness and wearability here, but I was left wondering whether, as a textile specialist, she'd be able to broaden her line into different silhouettes.
Fall/Winter 2009
In most instances, a designer's collection inspires fragrances or jewelry, but with Mary K Fall/Winter ’09, it's the other way around. Here the jewelry prints have been replaced by a fascination with Vintage and iconic perfume bottles. Katrantzou delivered impressively in the way of incorporating new silhouettes. She added fluted skirts and new dress shapes, long-line tubes, and zippered suede pants. Better still, she raised the level of her other talent as a jewelry designer, layering on giant necklaces constructed from gold tubing, chains, and mirrors… Amazing!!!!
Fall/Winter 2009 Collection & HNTV Interview (Harvey Nichols)
Spring/Summer 2010
Here is where this young designer has come into her own. She gave us vivid and vibrant color – yellow, green, shocking pink, azure and black. There were holographic prints and silver Swarovski incrusted panels worked into garments. This collection was inspired by Mirono glass.
The reflective shapes came to life, springing off the dresses and into folds which rippled around the neck or bust. Hand blown glass accessories by Peter Layton in the form of cuffs, collars, and bows helped to infuse newness and add dimension to the over- all hallucinogenic feel. With colors seeping and melding into one another, giving the collection a fast-paced quality. It was as though this is what fast forward looks like in clothes. This was a true testament to wearable art.
Fall/Winter 2010
For Fall 2010 Katranzou has created a dazzling visual language. Her use of multi-colored, trompe l’oeil prints was inspired by 18th century portraits and the work of artists such as Fragonard.
These prints were over the top, replicating exotic interior décor, baronial banners, heraldic stained glass and precious jewels. She has merged photographic images of lace, jewels, medals, and sashes in ways that vaguely recalled Gianni Versace's more-is-more scarf prints. She has even sculpted some of the prints into shapes that echoed parts of the garments. Her silhouettes have evolved this season giving us Printed vest-jackets, military jackets, a couple of Napoleonic coats, and a frothy frill-front shirt.
Actual necklaces, in faux stones and metal, rested on the bodices of dresses printed with similar jewelry. Other dresses printed with opulent swags and architectural details, mixed with black and white stripe inserts, were then embellished with flamenco-like flounces, lace and organza ruffles. It was all about a mix the felt fresh and eclectic all at once.
Final Thought:
For this fashionistador Mary Katranzou is the next generation of fashion design. It’s all about the evolution of her vision, her concepts, and her voice as a designer. She is what’s New, Now, & Next and I am looking forward to what she has to say.
Until next time wishing you F, G, & E..... Fashion, Glamour, and Excitement!!!
